A Guide to Bearded Dragon Diseases

When properly fed and with proper UV light, the bearded dragon is a robust and healthy creature, usually living from 8 to 12 years old, sometimes even 15 years old. However, like many reptiles, they will try to hide illness or injury. The first danger to face is the substrate. Impaction is a problem where an indigestible substance is trapped in the intestines and prevents proper flow in the digestive system. The best substrate is controversial, but everyone will agree that the following are bad. The ear of corn can cause impaction and grow fungi and bacteria. The walnut shell is sharp and can also cause impaction. Calcisand and Vita-Sand taste good with bearded dragons, especially those who need more calcium, but cannot be digested and lead to impaction. Repti bark, wood chips and original lizard litter can cause impaction. There are brands that claim to be biodegradable and safe to eat, but these should be viewed with suspicion. Bearded dragons have very short intestinal tracts, making it very difficult for them to metabolize their food. Solid surfaces are often the best and easiest to clean. Do not use heated stones to keep the enclosure warm, as dragons have trouble detecting the heat under their bodies, resulting in burns.

When ingested, they often straighten and extend their hind legs and act as if they are paralyzed. It's not the same as lounging, if the lizard can walk, it just acts normally. Increasing the heat or soaking in hot water can cause a bowel movement, but it is unlikely to save the creature. The best treatment is to limit the size of food and avoid dangerous substrates.

The next step is a good diet. Insects fed bearded dragons must be charged or fed before feeding them to lizards. Mealworms are a poor choice for feeding dragons, and only freshly moulted white larvae are suitable. At least one meal every other day should include a calcium supplement, sprayed or sprinkled on the food. Some people recommend a weekly multivitamin, but an excess of vitamin A can be fatal, so this should not be overstated. You want the right amount of nutrients, not as much as possible.

Vegetables should be sprayed with water before feeding to provide moisture, and animals should be sprayed periodically on their faces: hatchlings twice a day, adults several times a week. If they lick all the water, reapply until they stop. Some may learn to use a shallow pan, but it will need to be cleaned daily and immediately if it is defecated.

Animals will need sunlight, UV light or food supplementation to provide D3. Sunlight through a window will not work. If bulbs are used, keep them very close to the case, to within a few centimeters, and replace them twice a year, even if they do not burn.

Do not harbor dragons with other reptiles, and all new reptiles should be quarantined. Wash your hands before and after handling each reptile, and between handling reptiles kept in different enclosures. Keeping the case clean is also important for your pet's health.

Remember that you should always consult a veterinarian before treating an animal, and many problems are simply beyond the reach of the normal owner.

Coccidiosis is an infection commonly and incorrectly called a worm infestation. Coccidia are single-celled organisms that live on the intestinal walls and can cause diarrhea. Most dragons are normally infected, but only when lizards are weak does it become a danger. Smelly or loose intestines instead of hard granules are typical symptoms. Treatment usually involves a sulfa antibiotic. Quarantine the animal and make sure it is well hydrated. Do not allow it to reject food or water. A typical method is to use a syringe or dropper to feed the animal, but another method is to put food or water in the animal's nose. It will lick the substance from the "dirty" nose and consume it. Many vets recommend preventive deworming once or twice a year, just as you would a dog. However, others come to believe that it can harm the dragon's health and treatment should only be done when symptoms are detected. This may be a contributing factor to the "yellow fungus".

What is called the "yellow fungus" is believed to be more than one type of infection. The current belief is that many infected animals have been treated with Albon, a common antibiotic. This is believed to have killed off the good bacteria in the digestive tract, allowing yeast and fungi to survive in the feces, which then enter the lizard's skin. Whatever the cause, it is infectious and fatal. Treatment with priobiotics is recommended to follow any antibiotic regimen. Some known cases concerned animals that had never been treated with antibiotics but kept in natural soil. The treatment regimen currently considered to be the best treatment is topical Nolvosan, keep it away from the eyes, then rinse followed by lamisil treatment. This should cover the infected area and surrounding areas, with another lamisil treatment in every 24 hour period. Acidophiliz + is a known priobiotic, although there are others. Oral treatments should be supervised by the vet and during the treatment period, do not feed the lizard fruit. Treatment should be extended for two weeks after the onset of the last symptoms. Use a solid substrate during treatment and clean it daily. One complicating factor is that the infection takes more than 10 days to grow, which often delays treatment until it is too late.

We know little about adenovirus. Quarantine any reptile suspected of infection, as this can kill an entire collection. Unfortunately, the only sure way to determine if the creature has adenovirus is an autopsy. Most of the infected dragons had a history of lethargy, poor appetite, and diarrhea. They are probably younger than old. The symptoms are a frustrating wave. Some infected reptiles recover, others die. The mechanism used by the virus to reach the host is unknown and treatments have not yet been developed.

Bearded dragons can be infested with mites. Dust mites are extremely difficult to remove and require a double attack. The animal and its habitat must be treated. The animal should receive a diluted betadine bath. Let the lizard drink enough before adding betadine. If the animal defecates, empty the tank, clean it, and try again. The area around the eyes and nose should be treated with mineral oil after bathing. Discard all of the substrate, place it in a bag to remove it, and scrape the corners and edges of the enclosure to remove all mites, eggs, and mite droppings. Clean or spray the box with soapy water and remove the soap. Then use 1/30 bleach bleach for 10 minutes. Bake wooden furniture for 2-3 hours at 250 degrees, longer for thicker pieces. Boil the rocks for half an hour. Anything too large for these treatments should be treated with the bleaching solution for 8 hours. Clean or wipe anything else using these treatments, as appropriate for the substance. Use deworming tapes or cat flea collars in enclosures and seal the tank or enclosure as close to the air as possible. Leave it for at least three hours. Pack and remove all cleaning materials for disposal, and allow the enclosure to sit for at least 8 hours before turning the dragons over.

Binding to eggs is a potentially fatal problem. This occurs most often with a first clutch with infertile eggs. Discuss this with your vet, as there are several possible causes. To avoid this, the best plan is to make sure that the female is old enough, big and healthy enough to reproduce and that she has received the best diet possible with all the necessary supplements. Protect the animal from stress and make sure a suitable laying area is available.

Bearded dragons are vulnerable to respiratory problems. This may include blocked nostrils due to mucus, hoarse breathing through the mouth but no ventilation due to heat. The usual causes are excess humidity and cold. Contact your vet for treatment.

Too little vitamin D3 and calcium can cause metabolic bone disease. Symptoms include tremors, contractions or stiffness in the extremities (especially the hind legs), separation of the mouth, and difficulty chewing food. If caught early, sunlight and supplements can handle the situation.

Note that it is also possible to harm your dragons with excessive supplementation, as some nutrients are dangerous if the supply is too large to be manipulated by the body. Vitamin A toxicity generally causes swelling of the throat and eyes, followed by swelling and lethargy.

Hibernation occurs naturally. From December to February, start reducing the length of the day by monitoring the light room. Gradually reduce the light period to 8-10 hours, and lower the temperature to around 75-85 degrees during the day and 60 degrees at night. Provide materials to dig a nest. Make sure the dragon is healthy and has no undigested food. If the dragon is standing during the hibernation period, it is safe to provide small amounts of food. After about two months, start increasing the temperature and lighting period to normal.

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